Hello happy wanderers!
I know it’s been a long time since I’ve updated my travel blog. But I’ve missed the writing and this summer promises to be extra adventurous!
When I retired five years ago and moved full-time to Palm Springs, I knew that I’d never be able to stand the oppressively hot summers – yes, it’s a dry heat—but at 120 degrees, it just pure hell! Since the pandamic, my summers have mostly been spent in Croatia and this month I kick off my fourth summer visiting the stunning islands and crystal waters!
My longtime friend Jamie and I discovered Croatia in 2021 because it was the only country open for travel after Covid.
I discovered Cavtat during a tour to Montenegro that first summer. The tour guide said that we must check out Cavtat because it was her favorite place in all of Croatia. I booked it the following year and this summer is my 3rd time in the same apartment!
The apartment sits in the center of town, overlooking the Adriatic above a restaurant called Zino-- which has the best tuna steak in all of Croatia! It’s the perfect location. It’s also very convenient knowing the waiters in the restaurant who let me know when the fresh fish arrives. Kareem from Sarajevo, Bosnia is especially attentive. I think because I told him he looks like Ryan Gosling??!! His wife works in the kitchen. Of vourse she is young and beautiful because he is so handsome and truly a nice guy.
The waiter John from Dubrovnik is a funny guy. He’s always updating me on his girlfriend situation. I tell him everyday “John you look tired, didn’t you go to bed last night?” His answer is always the same, “I met a girl last night!”
Then there is Mateo! The son of the owner of my apartment. He does the transfers to the airport and keeps the gardens green. Sweetest guy and seriously handsome Croatian! He planted my basil plant in the garden so I would have fresh basil next year!
His mom Katia is lovely. Always quick to respond and takes such good care of me.
I was fortunate to meet a lovely couple from Gothenburg, Sweden, Jens and Anna. They were here in Cavtat celebrating their 1 year anniversary, staying in the apartment above me. We would sit at night talking to the waiters of the restaurant below us discussing politics and all the problems of the world. It was so interesting learning about their country. Gothenburg is now added to my bucket list!
Another lovely family I met was from Oslo. So fun to learn about these countries and compare our similarities. The 2 boys were adorable and so excited to be here. Oslo, another addition to the list!
Neil and Heather from England was the last couple I met who had the upstairs apartment. We had such a great connection. We plan on seeing each other in Lisbon come September if their plans work out.
Cavtat is lovely. I immediately fell in love with the village because of the friendliness of the people, including Paloma from Slovenia, who sold me my water taxi tickets. Nick snd his wife Catarina who placed my sunbed in the shade everyday at the beach and Katiana from Montenegro, the hostess of my favorite pizza restaurant!
There are excellent restaurants in Cavtat. The ease of relaxation, and of course the glorious crystal clear waters of the Adriatic make it a perfect choice for vacation. Cavtat is located approximately 45 minutes by water taxi to Dubrovnik, but much less expensive and less of a scene than Dubrovnik.
It is on the mainland and very close to the Montnegro border. By car from Dubrovnik it is approx. a 30 minute drive.
There is a lovely loop walking trail with beautiful views that circles the city. You walk along the pathway, smelling the freshness of the pines , admiring the intense green of the forest and witnessing the grapes maturing on the vines. One of my favorite places to watch the sunset is in a tiny bar, called Beach Bar Little Star on the cliffs along the promenade.
There are several locations you can swim in the ocean where they rent sun beds and umbrellas (€8-10) and you can spend your whole day lounging by the water which of course is my favorite thing to do. I love to snorkel but due to the unseasonably high water temperature this year, the snorkeling hasn’t been good. The locals say the fish have left for cooler waters.
There are a couple of large hotels in Cavtat. .One is called Hotel Croatia, and the other is called Hotel Cavtat. Next to my apartment is a very cute boutique hotel https://www.villafaggioni.com. There are many apartments for rent, ranging in price from €1200.00 - -$3000.00 per month on size/location. I have noticed in the last three years that the prices for accommodations has increased significantly—much like other popular European cities. I understand the hardships faced by the locals as a big influx of tourists have caused prices to rise.. This is happening in many cities and I’m not sure what the answer is. Croatia relies heavily on tourism. I do notice restaurants prices seem to remain about the same every year, which is 1/3 the price of what I would pay in Los Angeles. Here, I can get a delicious prix-fix lunch of salad, fresh sea bass, and dessert for about €19.
Some of my favorite restaurants in the Cavtat area:
Konoba Galija; best tuna tartar and weekly BBQ specials,
Bugenvila; a Michelin Star restaurant
La Boheme Restaurant & Bar.
St. Pietro
I also need to mention a beautiful wine bar,Wine Bar Banac, located in an old palace overlooking the village. Their motto is- “age and glasses of wine should never be counted!” My kind of place.! Banac is not just a stunning venue, it houses an incredible collection of artworks by renowned artists like Van Gogh’s “Sunflower” painting, also artists Bukovac, and Picasso.
Groceries are reasonably priced, and the fresh fruits and vegetables are so delicious coming straight from the farm. Every year I notice more and more organic options in the grocery stores.
I really love seeing families together here on their holiday. It’s so endearing to watch a dad teaching his kids how to dive in the water or how to swim. The family unit in Europe seems to be so much more cohesive. No computers at the restaurant table and no cell phones.
What I love most about my travel are the many wonderful people that I meet. Everyone is so friendly and willing to stop, listen, and chat.
Traveling alone, I bounce around to my own beat, Some days I don’t get to the beach until four or 5:00 p.m. in the afternoon. For me that’s the love of solo travel. My own schedule, my own timeline, my own decisions---but I’m also excited when family and friends join me on part of my adventures.
Thinking Cavtat might be your next perfect destination? Pack your bags, grab your camera, and get ready for an unforgettable adventure. Enjoy an opportunity to experience its unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. This charming town will capture your heart and leave you longing to return again and again.
I do need to add a side note:
A new report by the European Commission and the European Environment Agency found Croatia — the small Balkan nation on the Adriatic Sea — claims some of the cleanest coastal waters in all of Europe.
Well, the sun is high, it’s getting hot and just about time for me to jump into the deep blue sea! Stay tuned happy wanderers. There’s lots more to come!
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