Days of Summer
Updated: Sep 30
Regretfully, they are coming to an end. It's hard to believe we have been in Croatia almost three months. I have loved the time here in Sutivan with the slow pace, relaxing days, riding my bike and taking some long walks in the hills. Although loving the cooler days, nights, and fewer tourists, I am looking forward to getting back to the mainland for our trips to Plitvice Lakes National Park, Trogir, and Zagreb.
Here in Sutivan we've felt it's like stepping back in time to a simpler life. Far from all that's happening in the world. There is a mentality here that money and material things are not the main focus. Restaurants will let a person sit at a four top in a restaurant for hours with just a cup of coffee. One seating in a restaurant a night is a good night for them. We've often discussed a good job here would be managing apartments for Airbnb owners. We feel totally safe here, there is no crime. When was the last time you could just leave your key in the window to your apartment??!!
Even though I have been cooking a lot, we've eaten at some really good restaurants just walking distance from our apartment. Our favorite waitress, Dora at Konoba Bokuncin has been a highlight of our trip. She has a bright future ahead of her and next year she may open a cafe of her own here in Sutivan. Another reason to return!
There are three markets, (Konzum) that are very close to each other which makes grocery shopping very convenient and easy here.
There are so many little beaches to be found and one of the best is just five minutes from our apartment called Bunta Beach.
There is also a great spot at the bottom of the hill from our apartment that is perfect for a quick swim. We've made friends with the neighbor's dog, Ami, who swims every day with her owners. She is always excited to see us and we love watching her swimming around in the water.
Jamie and I rented a car for a couple days so we could do some exploring and look for some nice beaches. Road trip!
After driving to Bol for lunch and a haircut for me, we drove to the town of Milna which is a major port for ferry connections to the different islands. The town of Milna is very charming. The buildings sit very close to the harbor reminding me of the canals in Venice. The harbor is busy with many different size boats pulling up to dock, many offering excursions. It feels a bit touristy.
Leaving Milna, "mapgirl" was plotting our course and with a wrong turn we ended up at a beautiful little cove with two churches sitting in the middle of nowhere at the end of a dirt road. One was named St. John the Baptist and the other was St. Joseph Church, both protected national heritage sites. They sit on beautiful Osiboba Bay where we found a good spot to swim. We finally bought some foam mats, which makes lying on the rocks a whole lot easier!
On the way home we stopped in the small village of Bobovisca, also known as the poet's harbor, because the famous Croatian poet, Vladimir Nazor lived there.
We ended our day with a delicious meal at Konoba Kopacina.
This restaurant was highly recommended by several people we met. It is located up in the hills in the middle of the island. It turned out to be one of the best meals of our trip. This restaurant would definitely be worth another visit!
So although our summer has wound down, we've settled into a nice little routine that is such a part of island living. Jamie is having a harder time coping with the quiet and fewer tourist. but I really love the sense of calm that exists here. My 'Marco Polo" adventures have been fun and I seem to find a new adventure every day with walking or riding my bike.
I discovered a hotel on the beach, the BlueSun Holiday Resort Velaris, that has a beautiful beach and beach cafe. It is located in Supetar, which is a 20 minute bike ride from Sutivan. The beach is really nice with lounge chairs and there is a promenade that stretches along the beach for several miles.
I also found a great place to get a massage which was really needed after being so "stressed" out with life here. NOT!
Jamie is swimming at the moment, you can't keep her out of the water. I am wimping out because it looks chilly. I'm sitting on a deck, writing this post, hearing the waves hit shore, and the kids in the schoolyard playing soccer.
I will need to jump in the water soon because in a few days this will all be a wonderful memory of our Croatian summer.