Since I’ve now been to Cavtat several summers in a row, I’m fortunate to have Nick--my fabulous driver—on speed dial! We first met during the summer of 2021, when Jamie and I came to Dubrovnik. I recommend anyone I know coming to Dubrovnik/Cavtat to call Nick for transfers and private sightseeing tours. He is a wonderful guy, speaks great English, and was born in Dubrovnik. He knows where to go and where not to bother. He has no problem saying “bad idea” when I suggest something he doesn’t think will be of interest to me.
Since Cavtat is located in the heart of the Dubrovnik wine region, I asked Nick to put together a half-day wine tour and lunch. The area is known for their diverse and flavorful wines. One of the standout grape varieties is Plavac Mali, a red grape that is indigenous to Croatia. Plavac Mali is a robust and full-bodied grape that thrives in this warm Mediterranean climate. Its dark fruit flavors, hints of tobacco, and spicy notes make it a perfect companion to local dishes like grilled meats and seafood. I am constantly in search of the perfect red wine, hence, my numerous videos on Instagram and Facebook!
Interesting note: Croatians call their red wines “black.” So every wine is either black or white!
If white wine is your thing, try a “Posip,” a white grape that produces crisp and refreshing wines. Posip wines are characterized by their bright, citrus flavors and hints of fruit that makes them incredibly food-friendly.
Since my Airbnb host, Mato recommended I visit the Crvik Vinogradi & Vinarija winery, Nick and I ventured there. They are family-owned and dear friends of Mato’s family. They are also the primary supplier of wines in Cavtat.
Although his family now runs the business, the winery’s owner and his wife were on hand to greet me. They were quite a charming couple. The owner was so excited when I told him I was from Palm Springs, Calif. He had visited the area many years ago. He talked about having done business with wine owners in Temecula. He spoke no English and talked so fast that his daughter could hardly keep up with translating. I just kept shaking my head and repeating “da,” which means “yes” in Croatian. Wine makes all communication easier, right?
As Nick and I drove away –me with a fabulous Cabernet for later- Nick said he was quite impressed I could understand the owner’s rapid talk. Seriuosly? I just laughed!
Time to eat…
Nick suggested the Restaurant Konavoski Dvori, which is situated in the Konavle wine region. It sits on the grounds of an ancient mill by the Ljuta Rive and is right next to the rumbling waterfalls of the River Ljuta. The setting was stunning. Sitting at our table, the cool breeze surrounding us from the water tumbling over the falls felt wonderful.
The restaurant specializes in traditional authentic Croatian dishes. Their specialty is lamb and veal baked in an iron bell over live coals, slow cooked for hours-and needs to be ordered three hours ahead. I decided on the lamb osso buco with a tuna tartar appetizer. The meal was delicious and of course I complemented the food with a glass of Plavic Mali.
Staying in Cavtat, wine enthusiasts can immerse themselves in the local wine culture by visiting one of the many family-owned wineries that dot the countryside. The wine region sits in a beautiful valley that not only grows grapes, but also olive trees We even passed many trees laden with ripe, golden, delicious peaches! Stopping was a a firm “bad idea”!
Lastly, how to properly toast in Croatian. When sharing local wines or spirits, Croatians use the toast “Živjeli!” (pronounced zheev-yeh-lee) to wish you a long and healthy life.
If you learn no other Croatian …this will get you by!
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